Snow blind – Australians on the Fall/Winter 2013/2014 runways

Another show season bites the dust. As per usual, frockwriter has been following the Australian model story as the season rolled from New York to London to Milan to Paris (and interesting to see the mainstream Australian media also keeping close tabson model movements). So far we have counted 31 Australian faces, which is not […]

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Another show season bites the dust. As per usual, frockwriter has been following the Australian model story as the season rolled from New York to London to Milan to Paris (and interesting to see the mainstream Australian media also keeping close tabson model movements). So far we have counted 31 Australian faces, which is not far off the all-time record of 38. And a dramatic increase on the 19 from the last season in September/October. Not bad, considering the freezing northern winter and notably, New York’s Snow Storm Nemo – which Julia Nobis described to us during New York Fashion Week as like “Flying snow resembling a washing machine on spin cycle. Needless to say, I now have the flu! Thanks Nemo, Jolly good times”.

Here’s what Melissa Johannsen had to say on navigating Nemo:

“The 1st day of the Blizzard was exciting and almost beautiful, especially when you come from the middle of Australia, as I do!  But it soon became uncomfortable. I suppose that I was better prepared, this being my fourth NYFW. I know my way around, which is a huge advantage, but the snow soon became messy and uncomfortable and unbelievably cold! I had to make a few changes to my wardrobe- ie. My Dr Martens instead of a more casual shoe. I also wear a water proof down coat over my casting clothes and of course an umbrella was necessary.  I have had to take more taxis between castings and especially between shows than usual as this gives me time to think and thaw out….I did find it really funny watching all the fashion bloggers coming out of the blizzard into the shows. And peeling off all their oh-so-unglamorous waterproof layers and snow boots and changing into their super high-fashion outfits! Their style was definitely not compromised”.

Not only were a lot of Aussie models on the runways, they were frequently cast in the same top shows. Christopher Kane had five (Catherine McNeil, Gabby Dover, Rhianna Porter, Kaila Hart and Eva Downey). Saint Laurent had four (Julia Nobis, Catherine McNeil, Nicole Pollard and Olivia Thornton). Miu Miu had three (Catherine McNeil, Rhianna Porter and Cassi van den Dungen). 

They also ranged considerably in age and experience.

There were absolute newcomers such as Dover and April Tiplady, both just-signed to Australian agencies, but with zero modelling experience down under, who took their first runway steps in top ticket international shows such as Christopher Kane, Victoria by Victoria Beckham and Junya Watanabe.


Then there were the relatively new girls such as Nicole Pollard, who first appeared at New York Fashion Week 18 months ago and then captured the attention of Christian Dior’s new creative director Raf Simons last year, walking in all of his shows since July. This season, judging by her show list, Pollard has graduated to major league status.

Not forgetting veterans such as Nobis, who was everywhere once again this season, except for London, which she skipped. Nevertheless, she walked in 63 shows all up. With the season’s second biggest show tally of 40, Catherine McNeil was also everywhere. Nice to see also the return of Stephanie Carta in London.  

Then there were the Australia’s Next Top Model alumni. Three of them in fact: Cycle 6 winner Amanda Ware and Cycle 5’s Lola van Vorst and van den Dungen, that season’s runnerup. Ware pulled off an impressive 10 London shows while van Vorst did a couple of low-profile shows in the same city. We would like to see her do more. Van den Dungen, meanwhile, finally made her move on the international circuit and caught the attention of influential casting directors Katie Grand and Ashley Brokaw, scoring two of the season’s biggest shows – alongside the super exclusive Miu Miu, also Giles Deacon.

There were a few mysteries.

Although of course she had already notched up one of the season’s biggest showlists by that stage, Nobis was nowhere to be seen on Wednesday, a no-show at major closing day shows such as Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Elie Saab, which seemed unusual for her.

Although definitely in New York at the beginning of the season, Montana Cox did not do a single show. Ruby Jean Wilson did three shows in New York – including Marc Jacobs, in whose Spring/Summer 2013 ad campaign she stars – but then disappeared off the radar altogether.

There are many reasons why models don’t book shows. Absurdly intense competition being at the top of the list, at least for newcomers. Other reasons include other work commitments and immigration issues. Codie Young’s passport was lost by immigration authorities between New York and London, putting the kybosh on the rest of the season for her after a great start at New York Fashion Week. The flu can also strike. And of course heading into the season being just a couple of centimetres too big for designer samples can prove problematic. Likewise, being too small for the samples. Yes, it is possible to be too thin for the fashion industry. 

Congratulations to all on a great season. And also to New Zealand’s model pack. There is clearly something in the water over there because the Kiwis keep coming up with girls who shoot straight to the top. From Emily Baker, who did 60 shows in her first season two years ago (but also sat this season out) to Anmari Botha (45 shows) and now Ashleigh Good, who was working at an Auckland cafe in November 2011 when she was scouted at a bus stop. Four months later she headed straight to a Givenchy exclusive at Paris Fashion Week. This season she booked a whopping 65 shows

Here are the final show lists. Thanks for any additions that we might have missed. The New York shows are in black; London, blue; Milan, red; and Paris, grey. 

JULIA NOBIS
Edun (opened)

Jason Wu

Rag & Bone

Helmut Lang

Alexander Wang

Lacoste

Jill Stuart

Victoria Beckham (closed)

Derek Lam

Tommy Hilfiger

Belstaff

Donna Karan

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Tory Burch

Vera Wang (closed)

Diesel Black Gold
Narciso Rodriguez
Michael Kors
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti (opened)
Reed Krakoff
Proenza Schouler
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs
Gucci
No 21
Alberta Ferretti
Francesco Scognamiglio (closed)
Fendi (closed)
Prada
Etro (opened)
Versace
Iceberg
Bottega Veneta
Pucci (closed)
Jil Sander
Roberto Cavalli
Marni
Missoni
Salvatore Ferragamo
Gareth Pugh
Dries van Noten
Rue du Mail
Balenciaga
Rick Owens
Lanvin
Christian Dior
Vanessa Bruno
Maison Martin Margiela
Sonia Rykiel
Haider Ackermann
Viktor & Rolf (closed)
Acne Studios
Jean Paul Gaultier
Kenzo
Céline
Chloé
Givenchy
Sacai
Saint Laurent
Alexander McQueen
Hermès
Valentino
Chanel

= 63

CATHERINE MCNEIL
Jason Wu

Kenneth Cole (closed)

Prabal Gurung

Diane von Furstenberg

Zac Posen

Carolina Herrera

Ohne Titel

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Oscar de la Renta
Michael Kors
J Mendel
Marc Jacobs
Jonathan Saunders
Paul Smith (closed)
Christopher Kane
Giles
No 21
Francesco Scognamiglio
Prada
Ermanno Scervino
Marni
Dolce e Gabbana
Giorgio Armani (opened)
Anthony Vaccarello
Guy Laroche (opened)
Dries van Noten
Rue du Mail (opened)
Bamain
Barbara Bui (opened, closed)
Nina Ricci (opened, closed)
Lanvin
Christian Dior
Acne Studios
Jean Paul Gaultier
Givenchy
Saint Laurent
Hakaan
Hermès
Louis Vuitton
Elie Saab (opened)

= 40

NICOLE POLLARD
Alexander Wang

Y-3

Theyskens’ Theory

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Rodarte
Gucci
Fendi
Fay
Etro
Roberto Cavalli
Dolce e Gabbana
Missoni (opened)
Gareth Pugh
Guy Laroche
Mugler
Balenciaga
Nina Ricci
Christian Dior
Sonia Rykiel
Acne Studios
Loewe
Kenzo
Givenchy
Saint Laurent
Hermès
Louis Vuitton
Miu Miu

= 27

JEMMA BAINES
Houghton

Chadwick Bell (closed)

St John

Jill Stuart

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Boy by Band of Outsiders

DKNY

Zac Posen

Delpozo (closed)

Thom Browne

Badgley Mischka

Jenny Packham (closed)
Oscar de la Renta
Marchesa
John Rocha
Blugirl (opened)
Antonio Marras
Mila Schön
Moschino
Jo No Fui
Nina Ricci
Kenzo
Chanel
Valentino

= 24

CODIE YOUNG
Creatures of the Wind

Tadashi Shoji

Houghton (opened)

Nicole Miller (closed)

Suno

Son Jung Wan (opened and closed)

Boy by Band of Outsiders

Zac Posen

ICB by Prabal Gurung
Hache
Oscar de la Renta
Sophie Theallet
Araks
Honor

= 14

CHRYSTAL COPLAND
Timo Weiland
Costello Tagliapietra

Parkmoonchoo

Ruffian

Libertine

Delpozo
Anna Sui
Jeremy Scott
L’Wren Scott
John Rocha
Thomas Tait
Antonio Marras
Angelo Marani

= 13

MELISSA “MJ” JOHANNSEN
Sachin & Babi

Timo Weiland

Rebecca Minkoff

Billy Reid

Son Jung Wan

Noon by Noor

Boy by Band of Outsiders

Mathieu Mirano

Jenny Packham
Bibhu Mohapatra

= 10

AMANDA WARE
Sass & bide
London College of Fashion
David Koma (opened)
L’Wren Scott
Emilia Wickstead (closed)
Marios Schwab
Pringle of Scotland
Osman
Maria Grachvogel (closed)
Roksanda Ilincic

= 10

AJAK DENG
Mara Hoffman
Lela Rose

Naeem Khan

Dennis Basso
Oscar de la Renta
Chado Ralph Rucci
Nanette Lepore
Jeremy Scott
DL1961 (closed)

= 9


JORDAN COHAYNEY
Candela

Charlotte Ronson

Catherine Maladrino

Tia Cibani

Project Runway
Adam Andrascik
Ostwald Helgason

= 7


KAILA HART
Christopher Kane
Guy Laroche
Aganovich
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ann Demeulemeester
Hermès

= 6
JESS GOLD
House of Holland
Christopher Raeburn
Zoe Jordan
Michael van der Ham
Fyodor Golan

= 5

STEPHANIE CARTA
International Woolmark Prize
Christopher Raeburn
Richard Nicoll
L’Wren Scott
Antonio Berardi

= 5

CASSI VAN DEN DUNGEN
International Woolmark Prize
Giles
Maiyet
Miu Miu

= 4

SHANINA SHAIK

Jason Wu 
Lela Rose

Tracy Reese
Nanette Lepore
= 4

EVA DOWNEY

Jonathan Saunders
Christopher Kane
Marni

= 3

RHIANNA PORTER
Christopher Kane (exclusive)
Chloé
Miu Miu

= 3

LOLA VAN VORST
Dans La Vie
Zeynep Tosun
Love Mayka

= 3

OLIVIA THORNTON
Hexa by Kuho
Véronique Branquinho
Saint Laurent

= 3

TOM BULL
Billy Reid
Ian Velardi
Gilded Age
Boast
Michael Bastian

= 3



RUBY JEAN WILSON
Carolina Herrera
Anna Sui
Marc Jacobs

= 3

STIRLING CAIULO
Massimo Rebecchi 
Isabella Zoboli (opened)

= 2

GABBY DOVER
Victoria, Victoria Beckham
Christopher Kane

= 2
  
BRIDGET MALCOLM
J Crew

= 1

SKYE STRACKE
Brandon Sun

= 1
 
VALENTINA SYKES
John Galliano

= 1

JESSICA HART
Louis Vuitton

= 1

JOEL MEACOCK
Massimo Rebecchi 

= 1

APRIL TIPLADY
Junya Watanabe (closed)

= 1


LYDIA WILLEMINA COLLINS
Willow

= 1

KYE D’ARCY
London College of Fashion

= 1



photo gallery


all images: style.com

1/ julia nobis – valentino
2/ catherine mcneil – prada
3/ nicole pollard – gucci
4/ ruby jean wilson – marc jacobs
5/ olivia thornton – saint laurent
6/ cassi van den dungen – miu miu
7/ kaila hart – jean paul gaultier
8/ jemma baines – chanel
9/ rhianna porter – christopher kane
10/ jessica hart – louis vuitton