To the showgirls - Australia and New Zealand on the SS14 runways

They came, they saw, they werked it

"To the showgirl in all of us" noted Marc Jacobs in the dedication to what turned out to be his final tour of runway duty for French luxury behemoth Louis Vuitton.

Prior to Jacobs' arrival in 1997, Louis Vuitton did not make womenswear. During his 16 year tenure, thanks in no small measure to a series of pioneering and wildly successful accessory collaborations with artists such as the late Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince, Jacobs helped transform the company into the world's most valuable luxury brand, with an estimated worth of US$29.5billion and annual sales of US$9.46billion, which accounts for more than half of the operating profits of its LVMH parent.

LVMH, in turn, which owns a controlling share of the Marc Jacobs operating company and a third of the trademark, helped grow that brand from US$20million to US$1billion in sales over the same period. And now it's time for Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy, who each owns a third of the trademark, to focus on their own business and an IPO. We wish them well. And have a hunch that's not the last time that we see Jacobs on a Paris runway.

Jacobs has known more than a few Australian and New Zealand showgirls.

For his final, poignant, black-on-black show, he cast two of them: Julia Nobis and Anmari Botha, two of the season's top antipodians.

By Frockwriter's count, 44 Australian and New Zealand models worked the Spring/Summer 2014 runways - eight of them Kiwis. From veterans such as Nobis, Catherine McNeil and Miranda Kerr, to absolute newcomers like  Maddison Brown, Gabby Westbrook-Patrick and notably, Holly Rose Emery. Unknown in August last year, Emery pulled off some of the best shows of the season and earned a spot on Models.com's Top 10 Newcomers list for Spring/Summer 2014. Our guess is she will now be in demand for international fashion editorial and SS14 advertising campaigns.

Great also to see a number of other under-the-radar names pop up such as Lili Sumner, who came from left of field to book a Saint Laurent exclusive, Alicia Davis, Kia Low, Lauren Fisher, Mikaela Bell and Celia Flower Jones. Scouted while working at a bar on Sydney's Broadway a few months ago, the latter was whisked straight off to the shows and did three in her first season.

Congrats to all. Here are their complete SS14 show lists.

JULIA NOBIS (57)

  • Jason Wu
  • Lacoste
  • Alexander Wang
  • Altuzarra
  • Derek Lam
  • Diane von Furstenberg
  • Victoria Beckham
  • Edun
  • Tommy Hilfiger
  • Rag & Bone
  • Marc by Marc Jacobs
  • Diesel Black Gold
  • Vera Wang (opened)
  • Proenza Schouler
  • Reed Krakoff
  • Diesel Black Gold
  • Anna Sui
  • Narciso Rodriguez (closed)
  • Michael Kors
  • Calvin Klein
  • Marc Jacobs
  • Giles
  • Gucci
  • No. 21
  • Fendi
  • Francesco Scognamiglio
  • Ports 1961
  • Etro (closed)
  • Versace
  • Bottega Veneta
  • Roberto Cavalli
  • Jil Sander (closed)
  • Emilio Pucci
  • Marni
  • Missoni
  • Salvatore Ferragamo
  • Anthony Vaccarello
  • Dries van Noten
  • Balenciaga
  • Paco Rabanne
  • Nina Ricci
  • Lanvin
  • Christian Dior
  • Maison Martin Margiela (opened)
  • Haider Ackermann
  • Vikor & Rolf
  • Acne (opened)
  • Céline
  • Givenchy
  • Sacai
  • Saint Laurent (closed)
  • Valentino
  • Alexander McQueen
  • Chanel
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Hermès

ASHLEIGH GOOD (45)

  • Creatures of the Wind
  • Jason Wu
  • Rag & Bone
  • Helmut Lang
  • Prabal Gurung
  • Alexander Wang
  • Altuzarra (closed)
  • Derek Lam
  • Tommy Hilfiger
  • Donna Karan
  • Theyskens' Theory
  • Tory Burch
  • Reem Acra
  • Y-3 (opened)
  • Diesel Black Gold
  • Michael Kors
  • Philosophy
  • No. 21
  • Alberta Ferretti
  • Fendi
  • Francesco Scognamiglio
  • Blumarine
  • Iceberg
  • Marni
  • Missoni
  • Roberto Cavalli
  • Emilio Pucci
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Anthony Vaccarello
  • Cédric Charlier
  • Balenciaga
  • Paco Rabanne
  • Nina Ricci
  • Christian Dior
  • Maison Martin Margiela
  • Vikor & Rolf
  • Acne
  • Maiyet (opened)
  • Céline
  • Givenchy
  • Sacai
  • Giambattista Valli
  • Chanel
  • Valentino
  • Miu Miu

CATHERINE MCNEIL (36)

  • Jason Wu
  • Rag & Bone
  • Prabal Gurung
  • Derek Lam
  • Diane von Furstenberg
  • Caroline Herrera
  • Oscar de la Renta
  • Christopher Kane
  • Burberry
  • Tom Ford
  • Paul Smith
  • DSquared2
  • No. 21 (opened)
  • Fendi
  • Francesco Scognamiglio (closed)
  • Ports 1961
  • Blumarine
  • Sportmax
  • Tod's
  • Roberto Cavalli
  • Moschino (closed)
  • Dolce e Gabbana
  • Missoni
  • Anthony Vaccarello
  • Guy Laroche (opened)
  • Dries van Noten
  • Gareth Pugh
  • Balmain
  • Barbara Bui
  • Lanvin
  • Isabel Marant
  • Haider Ackermann
  • Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Emanuel Ungaro
  • Chanel
  • Hermès

HOLLY ROSE EMERY (31)

  • Jason Wu
  • Diane von Furstenberg
  • Theyskens' Theory
  • Marc by Marc Jacobs
  • Marchesa
  • Tory Burch
  • Marc Jacobs
  • Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
  • Mulberry (closed)
  • Jonathan Saunders
  • Christopher Kane
  • Erdem
  • Giles
  • DSquared2 (opened and closed)
  • Alberta Ferretti
  • Ports 1961
  • Trussardi
  • Aquilano.Rimondi
  • Moschino
  • Marni
  • Salvatore Ferregamo
  • Damir Doma
  • Dries van Noten
  • Felpe Oliveira Baptista (closed)
  • Nina Ricci
  • Sonia Rykiel
  • Collette Dinnigan (opened, closed)
  • Valentino
  • Chanel
  • Miu Miu
  • Zadig & Voltaire

RUBY JEAN WILSON (21)

  • Zimmermann (closed)
  • Tibi
  • Carolina Herrera
  • Osklen (opened and closed)
  • Jeremy Scott
  • Karen Walker
  • Margaret Howell
  • Emilia Wickstead (opened)
  • L'Wren Scott
  • Erdem
  • Peter Pilotto
  • Michael van der Ham
  • Paul Smith
  • Mary Katrantzou
  • Osman (opened, closed)
  • Fendi
  • Just Cavalli
  • Aganovich
  • Moschino
  • Ter et Bantine
  • Kenzo

ANMARI BOTHA (19)

  • Jill Stuart
  • Monique Lhuillier
  • Yigal Azrouel
  • Reem Acra
  • Y-3
  • Louise Goldin
  • Oscar de la Renta
  • David Koma
  • Max Mara
  • Costume National
  • Byblos (opened)
  • Emporio Armani
  • Tod's
  • Christian Dior
  • Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Maxime Simoëns
  • Saint Laurent
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Vionnet

JEMMA BAINES (18)

  • Monique Lhuillier
  • Tanya Taylor
  • Chadwick Bell
  • Zimmermann
  • Rebecca Taylor
  • Delpozo
  • Zac Posen
  • Sass & Bide
  • Oscar de la Renta
  • Marchesa
  • Rachel Zoe
  • Dion Lee
  • Karen Walker
  • Christopher Kane
  • Temperley London
  • Blugirl
  • Tsumori Chisato (opened)
  • Wunderkind

NICOLE POLLARD (18)

  • Creatures of the Wind (closed)
  • Helmut Lang
  • Alexander Wang
  • Edun
  • Opening Ceremony
  • 3.1 Phillip Lim
  • Rodarte
  • Marc by Marc Jacobs
  • Dion Lee
  • DSquared2
  • Roberto Cavalli
  • Dolce e Gabbana
  • Guy Laroche
  • Dries van Noten
  • Christian Dior
  • Sonia Rykiel
  • Maiyet
  • Ann Demeulemeester

CODIE YOUNG (14)

  • Tadashi Shoji
  • Tess Giberson (opened)
  • Kenneth Cole
  • Zac Posen
  • Band of Outsiders
  • Sophie Theallet
  • Marchesa
  • Marc Jacobs
  • Karen Walker
  • Giles
  • Paul Smith
  • Rochas
  • Chalayan
  • Jean Paul Gaultier

MADDISON BROWN (13)

  • Honor
  • Jason Wu
  • Tibi
  • Yigal Azrouel (opened)
  • Edun
  • 3.1 Phillip Lim
  • Sophie Theallet
  • Marchesa (closed)
  • Dion Lee
  • Mulberry
  • Peter Pilotto
  • Trussardi
  • Collette Dinnigan

ALICIA DAVIS (12)

  • Delpozo
  • Louise Goldin
  • Custo Barcelona
  • Charlotte Ronson
  • Fay
  • Byblos
  • Les Copains
  • Marco de Vincenzo
  • Massimo Rebecchi
  • Christian Wijnants (closed)
  • Jean Charles de Castelbajac

AMANDA WARE (12)

  • Tanya Taylor
  • J. Crew
  • Jenny Packham
  • Holly Fulton
  • Bora Aksu
  • Jasper Conran
  • Margaret Howell
  • David Koma
  • PPQ
  • Thomas Tait
  • Anya Hindmarch
  • Maria Grachvogel (closed)

CLAIRE COLLINS (10)

  • Christopher Kane
  • Emilio de la Morena
  • Simone Rocha
  • Osman
  • Ter et Bantine
  • A.F. Vandervorst
  • Yang Li
  • Vivienne Westwood
  • Ellery
  • Collette Dinnigan

AJAK DENG (9)

  • Zimmermann
  • Alexandre Herchcovitch
  • Kaufmanfranco
  • The Row
  • Dennis Basso
  • Mara Hoffman
  • Naeem Khan
  • Philipp Plein
  • MSGM

KIA LOW (9)

  • VFiles
  • Veronica Beard
  • Adeam
  • Sister by Sibling
  • Fyodor Golan
  • Michael van der Ham
  • Simone Rocha
  • Maria Grachvogel
  • Huishang Zhang

GABBY DOVER

  • Zoe Jordan (closed)
  • Christopher Kane (closed)
  • Marques' Ameida (closed)
  • Michael van der Ham
  • Orla Kiely
  • Mark Fast
  • Missoni
  • Julien David

EVA DOWNEY

  • ELLE Fashion Next
  • Tibi
  • Three as Four
  • Jeremy Laing
  • Libertine
  • Joie
  • Fenton-Fallon

KAILA HART

  • Vfiles
  • Jeremy Laing
  • Kaufmanfranco
  • Ralph Rucci
  • Jenny Packham
  • Thom Browne
  • L'Wren Scott
  • Thomas Tait
  • Anya Hindmarch

 BRIDGET MALCOLM

  • Peter Som
  • Kenneth Cole
  • Tibi
  • Rodarte
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Hache

GEORGIA FOWLER

  • Cushnie et Ochs
  • Nicole Miller
  • Kaufmanfranco
  • Ralph Rucci
  • Rachel Zoe
  • Jeremy Scott

GABBY WESTBROOK-PATRICK

  • Kenneth Cole
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Versace
  • John Galliano
  • Shiatzy Chen

EMMA CHAMPTALOUP

  • Proenza Schouler
  • Marc Jacobs
  • Prada
  • Givenchy

JESS GOLD

  • Costello Tagliapietra
  • Zimmermann
  • Rebecca Minkoff
  • Emilia Wickstead

KENDELL TOBIN

  • Organic by John Patrick
  • Son Jung Wan
  • Veronica Beard
  • VPL by Victoria Bartlett

MYF SHEPHERD

  • Pamella Roland
  • Thom Browne
  • Alon Livné
  • Emerson

CELIA FLOWER JONES

  • Ruffian
  • Koonhor
  • Krizia

ELLA VERBERNE

  • Meadham Kirchhoff
  • Fashion East
  • Lucas Nascimento

KELLIE WILLIAMS

  • Helmut Lang
  • 10 Crosby Derek Lam
  • Jen Kao

JESSICA HART

  • Max Mara
  • Dolce e Gabbana
  • Vionnet

LAUREN FISHER

  • Calla
  • Relief on the Runway
  • Ivana Helsinki

MIRANDA KERR

  • Stella McCartney (opened)
  • Chanel
  • Vionnet (closed)

STEPHANIE CARTA

  • Christopher Raeburn (closed)
  • Richard Nicoll
  • 1205

TOM BULL

  • Lucio Castro
  • Ovadia & Sons
  • Billy Reid

CHARLEE FRASER

  • Tia Cibani
  • Chadwick Bell

JAMES GATENBY

  • Patrick Ervell
  • Billy Reid

NATHANIEL VISSER

  • Skingraft
  • Frank & Oaks

ROSEMARY SMITH

  • Josie Natori
  • Zimmermann

CASSI VAN DEN DUNGEN

  • Calvin Klein Collection (exclusive)

LILI SUMNER

  • Saint Laurent (exclusive)

MIKAELA BELL

  • Roberto Musso (opened and closed)

MONTANA COX

  • Adam Selman

NIC SMITH

  • Billy Reid

OLIVIA THORNTON

  • Gosia Baczynska

SKYE STRACKE

  • Katie Gallagher

 

COVER: ANMARI BOTHA AT LOUIS VUITTON/STYLE.COM
PHOTO GALLERY:
1/ JULIA NOBIS – LOUIS VUITTON VIA WWD
2/ ASHLEIGH GOOD – MIU MIU VIA WWD
3/ HOLLY ROSE EMERY – MIU MIU VIA WWD
4/ CATHERINE MCNEIL – CHANEL VIA WWD
5/ ANMARI BOTHA – LOUIS VUITTON VIA WWD
6/ MADDISON BROWN – COLLETTE DINNIGAN VIA WWD
7/ MIRANDA KERR – STELLA MCCARTNEY VIA WWD
8/ NICOLE POLLARD - CHRISTIAN DIOR VIA WWD
9/ RUBY JEAN WILSON – TER ET BANTINE VIA WWD
10/ GABBY WESTBROOK-PATRICK – JOHN GALLIANO VIA WWD
11/ JEMMA BAINES – TSUMORI CHISATO VIA SONNYPHOTOS
12/ CODIE YOUNG – ROCHAS VIA SONNYPHOTOS
13/ ALICIA DAVIS – CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS VIA WWD
14/ CLAIRE COLLINS – ELLERY VIA WWD
15/ EMMA CHAMPTALOUP – GIVENCHY VIA WWD
16/ AJAK DENG - PHILIPP PLEIN, STYLE.COM VIA TFS
17/ LILI SUMNER – YVES SAINT LAURENT VIA WWD